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  • Fob & alarm problem

    Ive been trying to solve this problem for week now, and cannot understand the whole situation. Specs:
    - LD 23315 CK91 U337 Q6SW Z3 E36 Roadster Z3 M3.2 S50 ECE L M 1
    - april 1999 manufacturing date, LHD car, european version
    - Options list say; S302A Alarm System
    - I do have siren under fusebox at enginebay, I do have the motion detectors x2 inside console, I do have the led at back of the console
    - all fuses are checked and measured
    - new batteries in both fobs
    - fobs reprogrammed by manual instructions
    - previous owner says the fobs/alarms worked last summer, I bought the car with broken engine and didnt drive before last week

    Problem: Fobs dont lock the door nore activate the alarms. After I manually lock the doors, fobs do open the locks. No lights blinking or anything like that. Lights button on keys dont lid the cabin light, the light is on allways in both switch positions, in third position the light goes out. To make this weird, I cannot find the alarm module. I have studied the electronical troubleshooting manual and have practicly dismantled everything behind glovebox, and under steering wheel. I cannot find the alarms modul, or the plug for it. I even tried to follow the General Module wirings towards the alarms but its pretty much inpossible cause the wires go behind heater.

    The extra plug on left top is for cruise, I checked the wiring colours and its for sure. The alarms plug should be black with 12 pins. Also, there is free plug connection behind General Module (in picture the one with three connectors beside, the one below is Wiper-Washer module). The empty slots are, bottom for cruise, the right slot is for oil level module. The aluminum at right is ABS module.


    The fobs are like this:


    The problem seem to be that LOCK signal dont go the full process which I think should be: fob-mirror receiver-EWS-General Module. Or what? Help please!
    Last edited by 131; 16-06-2011, 05:34 PM.

  • #2
    It might be worth trying to re-sync the keys. It is a manual process and doesn't require a diadnostic machine.

    Copied this of another BMW forum and it sounds familiar;

    - Sit in the car with all the doors shut and windows up with your key fobs (all your fobs need to be done at the same time)
    - With one of your keys turn the ignition on then off and remove the key
    - Press and hold (keep holding) the unlock botton and then press the lock button 3 times.
    - Release all buttons and the locks will bounce up and down.
    - Repeat this with the other key/keys (press and hold unlock and press lock 3 times, locks will bounce)

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    • #3
      Problem solved Although Im a bit ops: cause I was kinda stupid, but what can I do :shrug

      So, here is the problem, the knob is worn;



      As I said earlier, I measured the door switches and they worked perfectly. But I didnt understand the door didn push the switch far enough :head: to actually click it. I accidentally noticed it when I tried to adjust the door go couple of millimetres deeper to fit the body line. Then it just started to work.. The cure isnt adjusting the lock latch deeper, it wont push the knob any further, I just twisted it a bit at the same time to different angle and so knob reached a bit longer. And every problem was fixed at once:
      - alarms work now
      - fob locks the doors AND the tank lid
      - inside light works as it should

      What YOU should do when testing the switches? At first, if your having the problems I had, push the knob as far as you can by your finger, and then try the fob. If it doesnt help, try another door. If it doesnt help try the bonnet switch. If it doenst help, open the one screw from inside plastics (no 1 in the pic, screw beside door lock, http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...44&hg=51&fg=50) to move carpet a bit and there is the switch wiring, there you can measure if the switch work. I jumped to straight to measure the switch and didnt understand the switch wasnt the problem, the knob moving the switch was. So, Im gonna order the new "latch striker" part nro. 6 at pic http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...30&hg=41&fg=40

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      • #4
        Good detective work!

        This is one for the knowledge base for sure.

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        • #5
          Very important knowledge is also to know that all Z3s dont have separate alarm-module. I sure dont. Its either in GM or in the EWS. Dont know for sure, but Im guessing the GM. My GM module number is so different to most sold at ebay, that its the propable place to find the alarms.

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          • #6
            I had a problem with the door latch striker on my Z3C, it had worn down and the window kept thinking the door was open so slid down whenever I went over a bump. Very annoying. New one from BMW for about £20.

            Knuckle scratching to change but easy enough. Some photos below.

            Loosened off, but try to keep the backing bracket in view, I used the bolts that came out, not a problem until the wire is removed.


            Wire connection found and unplugged, one phillips screw behind the seat


            Cut old wire off at latch end, taped the new one on to guide through the hole.


            Pull it through, re-assemble!

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