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  • Oil Cooling and Temperature

    I'm having some doubts that oil cooling system on my MC works as it should. I've read that MCs usually run hotter than M3s. But I've owned both 3.0 and 3.2 E36 M3's, but they definitely didn't get that hot with oil. In the MC, the oil gets much more than just marginally hotter. I noticed that any spirited driving gets my oil very fast to 120°C, and it seem rising. At that point I back off.

    For example: 10 minutes driving highway at constant speeds 200 km/h (5000 rpms in 5th) at 5°C outside temp, gets my oil to 120°C. Slowing down to around 150 km/h and it takes about 10 minutes to drop to 110°C.

    Another example, the windy hill climb road with speeds 60-120 km/h and I takes about the same time (10 mins) to take my oil to 120°C. Dropping is slow as well - it definitely isn't enough to backoff for 3 minutes, it takes quite more to fall at least to 110°C.

    The water temp seems rock solid at 1/2 of gauge all this time. I've also checked ducting to the oil cooler and all seems fine. Engine runs flawlessly in all other aspects. I have no idea what could be wrong, and I hardly believe this is normal. Well, I have two ideas: (1) the oil coolers thermostat might be disfunctional, or maybe (2) there's a problem with oil temp sensor. Am I missing something here?

    EDIT: I've mistakenly posted in general section. Can admins please move to tech section, thanks.
    Last edited by inside; 04-04-2010, 02:01 PM.

  • #2
    I have/had the same problem. I went to Snetterton in December and the temp went over 120degC within 3 laps of fairly 'gentle' driving, far too high for my liking.

    First I would check the ducting is sitting correctly for the oil cooler. Secondly I would check the thermostat for the oil cooler, this is located in the oil filter housing, you'll have to remove the housing completely and then pop out the thermostat and test it (check it opens and stays open with a little bit of force applied) in a pan of boiling water. Depending on mileage and the outcome of your other two checks I would definitely consider putting a new oil pump in and perhaps replacing the big end shells.

    Good luck,

    Paul

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    • #3
      Thanks for suggestions!

      Somehow I tought the oil-thermostat is built in the cooler, so this is really good news. I've checked the price and its just 25€ so I will be replacing it in either case. I had the shells replaced 5000km back and oil pump was checked.

      Otherwise I searched through some german forums and found that it's not uncommon problem to have oil temp as high as 125°C in MC/MR. I've also read that this shouldn't be any problem with the TWS oil (or similar other oil). But still confuses me, that some owner never exceed 110°C oil temperature...

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      • #4
        Could also just be the sender is over reading??

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        • #5
          could just be a sensor, it does sound like you are worrying too much, but i guess i would do the same if it was my car always waiting for something to go wrong, or trying to prevent it (even if it isnt gonna happen)

          Click here to email me

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          • #6
            c_w: Where can I find the sender unit? I just managed to find oil lever sensor and oil temp switch in ETK... is there another sensor, or is perhaps one of those two?

            indy: Yea might be it, but you know with these engines its better safe than sorry. I'm worrying someone put that oil gauge inside the car for me to us to have something to worry about

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            • #7
              Originally posted by inside View Post
              c_w: Where can I find the sender unit? I just managed to find oil lever sensor and oil temp switch in ETK... is there another sensor, or is perhaps one of those two?

              indy: Yea might be it, but you know with these engines its better safe than sorry. I'm worrying someone put that oil gauge inside the car for me to us to have something to worry about
              I'm not sure tbh!, but sometimes they can be an oil level and temp sensor combined. It must be in the sump somewhere though!!

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              • #8
                Is the oil filter housing held on with just three bolts? I too have higher oil temps than most people report on here, although not as high as the OP. I'm temped to replace the oil temperature switch on mine just to see if it makes any difference before I start looking at oil-cooler related options.

                Simple questions - if I remove the oil filter housing, how much oil should I expect to lose (how big a mess is this gonna make?) :)

                DC
                Last edited by DavidC; 08-04-2010, 10:45 AM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DavidC View Post
                  Is the oil filter housing held on with just three bolts?
                  DC
                  The oilfilter housing has 6 screws. Removing of air intake, fan cowl, alternator and vane pump is necessary.

                  ----

                  I have simular experience with my oil temperature: running constantly between 200- 220 km/h shows 130-140 degrees with my stock S50 MQP.

                  Some german forum people report of the same and some report of a max. temp. of 120 degrees at constant top speed (!). Some say with TWS temperatures up to 140-150 degrees shouldn’t be any problem.

                  As I want my car running at normal oil conditions my dealer changed the filter housing (with the oil thermostate inside) but it wasn’t successful.

                  Now I decided to check & change the oil temp switch. It’s very hard to reach the switch as BMW suggests. Because there is almost no space to necessarily unscrew the temp.-pressure-switch first and then to unscrew the temp-switch. I didn’t manage and will have my dealer doing that. Removal of the air intake box would be a good idea but is quite time-consuming.

                  Once removed I would check the Ohm-data of the ntc-resistore-temp-switch in increasing water temperature and compare them to the new switch data.

                  Secondly, I would borrow/buy an oil temp gauge and replace it to see if it shows the same data.

                  Furthermore someone reported of a failed air-mass flow meter. The air-gas-mixture was too lean which leads to the high temperature of combustion.

                  And someone reported of failed catalysators as reason for high temp. data.

                  - Maybe an exchange to a bigger oil cooler would be ok, finally. -

                  Attached manuals for airbox and switch removal
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    just to say, ive never seen my guage reach 100deg or over. usually sits around the 90 mark, i think!? where does everyone elses sit?

                    Click here to email me

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                    • #11
                      During spirited and normal driving conditions around 90.

                      HTH


                      2005, E46 M3 Carbon Black
                      2007, X3 3.0d M Sport

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                      • #12
                        Hello sys49152, thanks for posting. I would be really interested to hear a solution if you find it out.

                        My oil temp gauge stops around 120-125 deg and after some reading I stopped worrying much about it. I have oil temp switch prepared for install and I also plan to do some oil cooler cleaning. Just need to find time to do it or take it to workshop...

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                        • #13
                          Oil Temp

                          Hi guys,have just seen this thread as i've been away and have some input to ad.
                          My air-con has'nt been working for 2 yrs or so,never fixed it because we never really have a summer,anyway it looks like this year we may have so i bought a condenser from a company called AUTOKOOL,Dave P put me onto them (thanx) Fitting the condenser the day before i went down to Fowey Cornwall,few problems,the Condenser i bought was longer but thinner than the OEM item,covering the oil cooler,also without trimming the ducting for the oil cooler it won't go back in,it fouls on the bumper,so i left it out!!
                          Recently too i had an oil change and put in SILKOLENE PRO 0W 40,my previous oil temps on a long run (Castrol Edge) 110-115,with Silkolene it was just over the 100 and never budged,and thats with a covered oil cooler and no ducting AND sitting between 90-100 mph most of the way(250mls)
                          My engine and Vanos have never sounded as quiet since i had the car,am chuffed!!! Silkolene for ever more for me

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                          • #14
                            Interesting....

                            Mine has always (from almost new) sat between 100-110C on the motorway with it creeping up to ~115 if I really give it the beans. As far as I know that's 'normal' using the recommended Castrol TWS oil. Never used Silkolene but might give it a go and see.

                            I suppose if the oil is less viscous then the engine would run cooler as a result anyway? That doesn't necessarily mean it's doing your engine any good however.... It might be happier with a higher temp and a thicker oil? There must be a reason that all cars don't use thinner oils and run at lower temperatures! And why 10w60 is still reccommended? Then again, what do I know - just rambling now.......

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Dr. N View Post
                              Interesting....

                              Mine has always (from almost new) sat between 100-110C on the motorway with it creeping up to ~115 if I really give it the beans. As far as I know that's 'normal' using the recommended Castrol TWS oil.
                              mine runs similar temperatures also which I also thought was normal.

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