Great results Ian
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Ian_C Estoril S50 Journal
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Originally posted by Spooks View PostLooking good
I want to do my headlights; have you put any kind of protector on to stop them fading again?
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Originally posted by Ian_C View PostI haven't - I keep the car in the garage when not in use so it doesn't get constant exposure to UV light (I think this is the cause of fading?). I'm seeing how long they last before/if they need doing again. With the lights off the car it was only 30 mins per headlight to get them sparkling. I was very impressed with the 3M kit - my son had used the Meguiars kit previously but the 3M one seemed so much better i.e. quicker & more effective
I might give that a try myself then2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)
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Originally posted by Jonttt View PostI thought the external temp sensor was behind the rear drivers wheel arch on all Z3m's, not the front bumper as per the none ///M's ?
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Took some time to carry out some preventive maintenance recently. Treated the inside of the sills with Dinitrol Converust and 3125HS. Followed this with some light surface rust treatment under the sills using POR15 and overcoated with Hammerite/Waxoyl underbody seal.
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Originally posted by Dave P View PostWhat's the Dinitrol a spray liquid?Originally posted by c_w View PostI've not used the convertrust but the 3125 wax is a spray, comes with a long straw nozzle and is great for spraying wax in to box sections etc. It drys a brown waxy colour. I soaked the sills and behind arch/wing/sills on mine with it.
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Good to know. I think most of whatever rust you may have on the outside of the chassis rail sills is caused by the sill covers rusting from the inside and it starts at certain areas on the rail too. I can't see the inside of those rails rusting, looks like metal fit for a tank
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Fitted new KWv3 suspension recently. Taking a lead from others I set up as follows:
Rear bump is 5 1/4 turns from full soft (full soft is fully anti-clockwise)
Rear rebound is 2 clicks from full soft
Front bump is 8 clicks from full soft
Front rebound is 7 clicks from full soft
Had a play with ride height and eventually settled on not using the KW adjusters but replaced standard spring pads with new thicker ones from dealer. The ride is truly excellent and I think I've got the stance pretty much spot on too
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Ian, I've never quite worked out where the adjusters are for the kws. I know stiffness on the front is at the top, but where is the rest?
Car looks great by the way
Build thread: https://www.z3mcoupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19347
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Ian,
Can I ask why you didn't use the KW height adjusters?
I have them on mine, but to get the ride height acceptable the springs look virtually coil bound. Consequently the rear is quite hard over speed bumps etc.
Did you just use the KW springs and a BMW pad? If so can you let me know part number of your springs and the BMW pad as I might consider doing the same.
Having written that and thinking about it, to get the height I want (similar to yours) I am not sure whether loosing the adjusters actually gains you anything. I need to get my head under the car and remind myself how it all works.
I don't suppose you can photograph your rear springs when the vehicle weight is on them?
Thanks,
Jon
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