Was your back plate cut down to fit the Brembos, Dave?
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Replacing Rear brake shoes and cables
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Originally posted by Dave P View PostI am going to replace the handbrake cables at the same time has anyone done this if so any tips?
Putting them back in is a breeze and they will go right into the handle with no effort on your part whatsoever.
The ferrule at the hub end can also corrode, and though harder to get the pliers in there, same method applies.
Adjust the shoes up to contact with the inside of the rotor, then YANK up on the handle a few times to get the shoes centered, and recheck adjustment. I think the TIS says that they should rotate freely with the handle on the first click, and then start to drag on the second click.
If the cables aren't snug, they'll rattle (and do make sure to snap them back into thier clips on the tank and at swaybar mount), and though not strictly correct, I use the cable adjustment to fine tune the shoe adjustment (you should get them as close as possible via the screw adjustment between the shoes, using a screwdriver through a lugbolt hole).
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Originally posted by Spooks View PostWas your back plate cut down to fit the Brembos, Dave?
Originally posted by Randy Forbes View PostTake the nuts and plate off from the handle end, and leave the handle lowered. The ferrules will probably be stuck where they go into the body (above driveshaft) but just twist them with Channelock pliers while pulling on them and they'll come out__penetrating oil helps. The threaded ends *may* get caught while pulling them out, and if so, just thrash the hell out of them while continuing to exert moderate tension on them and they WILL come out.
Putting them back in is a breeze and they will go right into the handle with no effort on your part whatsoever.
The ferrule at the hub end can also corrode, and though harder to get the pliers in there, same method applies.
Adjust the shoes up to contact with the inside of the rotor, then YANK up on the handle a few times to get the shoes centered, and recheck adjustment. I think the TIS says that they should rotate freely with the handle on the first click, and then start to drag on the second click.
If the cables aren't snug, they'll rattle (and do make sure to snap them back into thier clips on the tank and at swaybar mount), and though not strictly correct, I use the cable adjustment to fine tune the shoe adjustment (you should get them as close as possible via the screw adjustment between the shoes, using a screwdriver through a lugbolt hole).
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They look great Dave.
Whilst we're on the subject of brakes, I've noticed people recommend yellow stuff brake pads within the forum: I'm thinking of changing my front pads, but wondered-can I use the original callipers and disks or won't they be compatible with yellow stuff pads ?S54 M Coupe
D5 Alpina Touring
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Looking good! I wish my discs were drilled rather than grooved, something about drilled
Originally posted by Howiez View PostThey look great Dave.
Whilst we're on the subject of brakes, I've noticed people recommend yellow stuff brake pads within the forum: I'm thinking of changing my front pads, but wondered-can I use the original callipers and disks or won't they be compatible with yellow stuff pads ?2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)
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Looking at realoem for the handbrake parts it shows items 5 and 2 but these parts aren't fitted as far as I know
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0930
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Originally posted by Dave P View PostLooking at realoem for the handbrake parts it shows items 5 and 2 but these parts aren't fitted as far as I know
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0930
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