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  • Engine stalling and nearly stalling

    Hoping someone can point me in the right direction with this, I will try and explain as best I can.

    Recently I went on a long run and the car was absolutley fine. When I got back however I was reversing around the driveway and the car kept stalling. I took out again then and there and it was fine when driving.

    Since then Ive taken it out a couple of times and when I slow right down, take the foot of the accelator and dip the clutch the car nearly (and sometimes actually does) stalls. Sometimes the revs just drop as if its about to cut out then revs back up itself as if its compensating.

    I will try and take it out again over the weekend and get a better description of the problem but generally it seems to be when slowing right down and dipping the clutch it seems stutter and almost stall.

    I dont if this is significant and Im sure its only a coincidence but on that long journey I put BP Ultimate fuel in as I couldnt find a shell garage as I usually put in V-Power. I have since used all the Ultimate and filled up with V-Power so I dont think thats the problem as its still doing it.

    The only other thing of significance is that I adjusted the accelator cable (to take out the slack) but I'm sure I took the car out after I did that and didnt notice any problem on that particular journey. Ive adjusted the cable back to where it was and still getting the problem.

    Any ideas what the problem could be?

  • #2
    It's probaly something to do with the vacum system, either a leak or idle control valve sticking.
    Best way to check for leaks is to use pressurised smoke, bexley motor works has one of these machine, probably many garages do also...

    Then I would also recommend searching forums for idle control valave. A common problem is they stick and don't open enough to recover a stall - quite an easy job to remove and clean with brake cleaner - again plently on forums of 'how to'
    Imola S50 1999

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info, will have a look around and see if I can find a "how to" somewhere, gives me somewhere to start

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      • #4
        Seems a coincidence occured after you played around with the throttle cable so I would definately double check that ideally with someone else who can be on the accelerator pedal so you can check its not sticking around low revs.

        A new cable is cheap (c£20) and is a DIY job if it is sticking (the lubricant wears off over the years as well as the cable stretching)

        The other easy check is the MAF sensor, unplug it and it will run on a default setting, if the problem disappears then its the MAF (which is c£200!) nb while its unplugged the engine warning light will come on but will turn itself off after a few miles when reconnected ;-)
        VIDEO or Journal

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Jonttt View Post
          Seems a coincidence occured after you played around with the throttle cable so I would definately double check that ideally with someone else who can be on the accelerator pedal so you can check its not sticking around low revs.

          A new cable is cheap (c£20) and is a DIY job if it is sticking (the lubricant wears off over the years as well as the cable stretching)

          The other easy check is the MAF sensor, unplug it and it will run on a default setting, if the problem disappears then its the MAF (which is c£200!) nb while its unplugged the engine warning light will come on but will turn itself off after a few miles when reconnected ;-)
          Yeah pretty sure its not that though as Ive put it back the way it was and its still doing it.

          Spoke to the garage this week and after describing the symptoms they pretty much suggested what cragg had said. Its going in next week to have it checked and mot done at the same time.

          Will post outcome in case in helps any similar problems for anyone else.

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          • #6
            Well Ive finally got the car back after being in the garage for a month.

            I sat with the guy from the garage last night for an hour as he took me through what was wrong with the car and what was done to fix all the issues.

            Hes going to write me a report on it so I will post more details when he gives me that but basically it wasnt far off being a complete engine rebuild.

            Its not a good day, xmas has been effectively cancelled, in fact the next two have!

            One of the most expensive parts that was replaced was the ECU. He asked if I had been jump-starting it which I had been doing alot when I had battery issues recently. He said if thats not done properly it can effectively break it. I asked another garage about this and they verified that this could happen. Anyone else know about this? I think he was saying that the jump procedure needs to be done in a specific manner i.e. to get the voltages correct etc.

            Anyway its back, it does seem to be running much better but boy this has really made me think if I can really afford to have this car with bills like that. My head is telling me to sell it, I've got a wee boy and I think what that money could have been used for. On the other hand with prices as they are the other half of me is telling me to hang on to it if/when prices go up.

            The heart of course is telling me to keep it because after not seeing it or driving it for a month I so enjoyed that drive home in it last night

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            • #7
              I wouldn't hang on for prices to rise.
              I'm more likely to make my fortune spreadbetting this lunchtime.

              I think you've got an s50 so can't speak from experience enginewise, but when I first got mine - there was a load of stuff done under warranty - thankfully - which cost a fair bit, but once that was done, I've never had any monster bills and I'm on 98k now.

              Biggest I think was new cats at just over 1k, and I probably could have done that cheaper.
              Rest is all consumables really.

              Bit distressing to hear it's not running any better after all that work though.
              Hope you haven't got a load of stuff done unnecessarily.

              Incidently, mine does just what you've described, from cold it almost stalls if I come off the gas and put the clutch in as I slow to a stop for instance.
              Been like that for some time - so about time I looked at that eh.
              S54 Seca Blue - ACS Short shift and Exhaust. Luverly.

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              • #8
                No it is running much better, I would have been seriously concerned if it wasnt after all that.

                It seems that all this wasnt really to do with the stalling issue, it was to do with the idle, the stalling was fixed by replacing the Idle Control Valve, which aint a cheap part either.

                The main issue was something wrong with the idle which to be fair two independant garages picked up on so it wasnt just one garage who diagnosed it. It just seems that so many parts and so much time was required to put it all right. Unless you are a mechanic would else can you do but put your trust in the garage and believe what they are telling you, I have to say I do trust the garage but I'm annoyed about the ECU replacement which at the moment seems to be my fault.

                I'll post more details when the report comes through on what was actually done.

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