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Subframe bush inserts

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  • #31
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-e...Q5fAccessories

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    • #32
      are they easy to fit?

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      • #33
        Originally posted by c_w View Post
        Fitting is easy. The butt strut won't do anything to reduce movement or improve reaction to acceleration/lift off.

        Basically you undo the large nut at either side of the subframe and also the two pairs of allen key bolts (be careful as these round easily). You'll probably have to support the subframe as these nuts and side plates hold the subframe on.

        Then it's just a matter of pushing in the plastic inserts into the gaps in the bush. I've only got one in either side (I've filled the rearmost gaps) as I found with both fitted NVH was noticeable worse but with just the rears ones fitted it seems better but doesn't lose the stability and control of "twist" under acceleration and lift-off.
        looks like they are easy to fit!

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        • #34
          I've ordered some to try

          I was going to try the poly bushes but website says sold out so will try these as they are much cheaper

          Dave, when can I drop my car off for you to fit
          VIDEO or Journal

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Jonttt View Post
            I've ordered some to try

            Dave, when can I drop my car off for you to fit
            I think we should nip round to c_w's and get him to do both!

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            • #36
              Plenty of time at Gaydon
              VIDEO or Journal

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              • #37
                Yea the main issue is undoign the probably rusty allen key bolts (so much easier to deal with when replaced with normal bolt heads). Use washing up liquid to slide them in. Also, you can as half-way measure just fit one insert in the "outer rear sides", this increases control under power without as much NVH as both fitted.
                Last edited by c_w; 03-08-2010, 08:21 AM.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by c_w View Post
                  Yea the main issue is undoign the probably rusty allen key bolts (so much easier to deal with when replaced with normal bolt heads).
                  They can be difficult to undo and I find the front one on the driver's side is the most difficult to access with the hex insert in a straight line. Spray them with dismantling fluid and leave them for a while before you attempt to undo them because you wouldn't want to bugger the head since it is right under the fuel tank and cutting it out or heating it up could be interesting!
                  /// Exdos ///
                  "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                  • #39
                    Really grateful if someone can confirm what to remove in terms of this diagram, and where exactly the inserts go (I only have 2)

                    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...98&hg=33&fg=30

                    I'm afraid I've only just starting working on the car myself (never had the space before) so I'm a beginner. It would also be really helpful to know if the car should be jacked and if it matters where the axkle stand is for this job. Thanks.

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                    • #40
                      This diagram will help.


                      You need to remove part 4 in order to access the subframe bushes. To do this you need to undo the nuts (22mm) on the end of the subframe pins (part 2) Slacken them before you lift the car because they're torqued on well (need a long handle on your socket for leverage). Then lift the car.

                      If you put axle stands under the subframe they will get in your way to undo the bolts (part 5), so it is better to run the car onto some ramps. Remember that the handbrake works on the rear wheels only, so make sure that you chock the front wheels (back and front) to be sure the car doesn't move when you're underneath it.

                      To remove part 4 you need to undo the hex socket head bolts (part 5) which require a 6mm hex key and they can be difficult to undo and I find the front one on the driver's side is the most difficult to access with the hex insert in a straight line. Spray them with dismantling fluid and leave them for a while before you attempt to undo them. I've bought a set of hex sockets and use them with an extension that fits onto a ratchet head handle, because an Allen key is hopeless.

                      Once you've removed part 4 you should see there are two voids in the rubber subframe bush and your inserts need to be pushed into those voids. Use washing up liquid as a lubricant when you insert your "inserts".

                      Reassembly is in the reverse.

                      Since you're a beginner at this, just make sure that you have the car SAFELY lifted before you get underneath it because gravity is very strong stuff!
                      /// Exdos ///
                      "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                      • #41
                        I would just add to grease the threads of the side mount bolts (and maybe replace them with regular 6-side head bolts). Also if you're just fitting one perside (which I think you are?) to fit them in the rear/outer most voids - the voids are at diagonals from memory and that's the best way I can describe it!!).

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                        • #42
                          I have 4 inserts (2 per side) at the moment. I'm considering removing one per side to reduce the NVH transmission.

                          However I think I read somewhere that the reduction in subframe movement (due to inserts) has a benefit in preventing boot floor failure.

                          Does anyone have an opinion on this? Are 4 inserts are better than 2 if this is the case?

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                          • #43
                            If you remove the rear subframe from the MC you'll find that it is an incredibly flexible part and is far from a rigid beam. When the diff is bolted onto the subframe it will reduce the flexibility somewhat, but it'll still be far from completely rigid when the ends are restrained by two very flexible subframe bushes: that's the reason why the bush "inserts" improve rear end performance. In driving conditions and in OEM state the rear subframe will be constantly moving many millimeters in 3D, which will also exert a constantly changing force to the diff mount which is fixed to the bodyshell: I think this is a major factor in causing the boot floor failure. As I see it, if you can reduce the movement of the subframe, not only will it improve performance, but it will also reduce the force being applied through the diff mount to the bodyshell. Whilst I think the bush inserts or polyurethane subframe bushes will help prevent boot floor failure, I certainly wouldn't replace the diff mount bushing with anything stiffer, otherwise I reckon it would make the problem worse.

                            I have poly subframe bushes on my MC so this makes the bushing even stiffer than OEM with 2 inserts per side.
                            /// Exdos ///
                            "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                            • #44
                              After fitted the alluminium and rear solid diff,appart the noise,the car goes really well and seems is more ready of before in acceraltion..
                              www.fastdrive.org
                              S50 black/black-red In Rome
                              Front BBK Stoptech Red+Eibach Sway Bars+Kw Clubsport Whit Camber plates+Weichers Strutbar+Agk Urethane front Silent Block & differential Bushing+Tuner Motorposrt Alluminium Rear Mount+Hamann Exaust

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                              • #45
                                Great info chaps, many thanks. I dont have ramps, but my neighbour has a lift, so I may even use that. If you never hear from me again it means I am impaled under an M Coupe somewhere.

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