Yup, seems like a great price to me too
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Boot floor / differential carrier failure! photos
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Sorry about my criticism, but the paintjob (or whatever you call this) is absolute crap. At least the Construction seems to be "ok" so far, some additional plates should hold it together for a few kilometers but I'm pretty shure that won't last forever.
I still wonder how the guy managed to fix a damage of this extend and line up everything correctly without disassembling the sway bar, differential etc.. The sound deadening mats in the trunk floor weren't removed either - not the professional way in my opinion.
Nevertheless I wish you a lot of fun with you car.
Best regards,
Phil
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Hi Phil, I must reply in defence of the company who did the work. They simply did what I asked them to. I'd hat e to see them get a bad reputation on the basis on my car. That I suppose is always the danger of putting photos and names/recommendations online.
The original photos were just the way I left the car.
I could have taken it back to the body shop that did my bumper and bonnet recently but it was have been about 10 times what I paid. Times are hard.
I know the guy who did the work and trust him so I am happy especially considering the number of pound notes I gave him. I know that if anyone on here was to take their car to him he would do an excellent job to the standard they desire.
Thanks
Andy
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Originally posted by RST Driver View PostSorry about my criticism, but the paintjob (or whatever you call this) is absolute crap. At least the Construction seems to be "ok" so far, some additional plates should hold it together for a few kilometers but I'm pretty shure that won't last forever.
I still wonder how the guy managed to fix a damage of this extend and line up everything correctly without disassembling the sway bar, differential etc.. The sound deadening mats in the trunk floor weren't removed either - not the professional way in my opinion.
Nevertheless I wish you a lot of fun with you car.
Best regards,
Phil
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c_w, I know the Z3 rear axle construction pretty well, no explanation needed here since my car started cracking 2 spot welds and has a hairline crack in that ear.
You are right, there is nothing to say about welding the broken parts back together but this is just fixing symptomes. The reason of the trunkfloor failure still exists since there is very little reinforcement done.
If you install stiffer i.e. polyurethane rear subframe bushings the force pulling on that ear during acceleration is enormously reduced. A simple solution to enhance the endurance of that construction. Positive sideeffect: much better handling concerning stability (from what I've heard so far).
Best regards,
Phil
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I've never worked out whether I think the stiffer mounts are better as they generally transmit more force in to the body, but maybe they do take more of the stress than the rear diff mount.
I think the main thing to do is increase the amount of weld as it's the poor spot welds that are the problem, and the fact there's not enough of them (although the thin metal does not help either!)! I doubled up all the weld, seam welded the left hand chassis rail then welded a plate of the area too.Last edited by c_w; 23-04-2011, 09:28 PM.
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Originally posted by c_w View PostI've never worked out whether I think the stiffer mounts are better as they generally transmit more force in to the body, but maybe they do take more of the stress than the rear diff mount./// Exdos ///
"Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart
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I think my dad who helped me took a few on his camera. Basically we "repaired" it by re-welding the failed sport welds, then halfing the pitch of the welds by drilling new holes and fill welded those. Mine wasn't a severe failure though, just literally about 3 spot welds had failed to the left of the diff mount (looking in the boot) so structurally or the boot floor nothing had moved, I was just getting odd squeaking/cracking noises when setting off normally in 1st. Where the cross member meets the side chassis rail was perfect but just seam welded that for future.
Also doubled up the thickness of the diff ear bracket buy adapting a new bracket to sit on top of the existing one (the bracket was fine on my but just to strengthen it) and welded that.
Finally a metal plate was welded over the area of concern (from the top of the diff ear bracket to the left chassis rail) to give extra support.
Got some sound deadening which softens when it heats and used a small decorators wooden roller to cover it all up so it looks factory!
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Originally posted by exdos View PostAs I see it, If the diff is constantly moving left and right on the flexible subframe bushes then this will create leverage on the diff mount which then constantly flexes the boot floor. It would make more sense to attach the diff entirely to a differently designed subframe or, instead, attach the diff entirely to the car body.
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Temporary fix didn't solve the problem, familiar creaking noise and about 10 miles later a huge BANG! Diff ear snapped.
Long story short, new OEM BMW re-inforced replacement part.
Foolishly last year I just had the repair many other forum users had, had on their cars, the 'L' shaped spot welds, I wish I had scraped for another hour and revealed the full extend of the damage!
Well I've been without the car for over a week, but my Saxo VTR track car is now road legal and in 'testing' for Lydden Hill in 2 weeks so it's not all bad news!
A few snaps, pops and holes!
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