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  #21  
Old 26-09-2017, 10:33 AM
maph maph is offline
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Originally Posted by Chris W View Post
Thanks. That sounds expensive. Really don't want it to be the subframe. Would something like that not be an MOT failure?
Another (cheaper) option for the creaking at the rear would be the top mounts. These are a common failure and when they do cause creaking initially and then knocking.

If it is them, it takes a while to fit as you need to strip out carpet etc in rear but it will give you an opportunity to check out the boot floor at the same time.

Lots of thread on them on here
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  #22  
Old 26-09-2017, 11:29 AM
Chris W Chris W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maph View Post
Another (cheaper) option for the creaking at the rear would be the top mounts. These are a common failure and when they do cause creaking initially and then knocking.

If it is them, it takes a while to fit as you need to strip out carpet etc in rear but it will give you an opportunity to check out the boot floor at the same time.

Lots of thread on them on here
Ok cool. I'm taking it round to my local mechanic today to have a look in the boot and put it up on the ramp to see how it's looking.
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  #23  
Old 26-09-2017, 03:33 PM
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petecossie petecossie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maph View Post
Another (cheaper) option for the creaking at the rear would be the top mounts. These are a common failure and when they do cause creaking initially and then knocking.

If it is them, it takes a while to fit as you need to strip out carpet etc in rear but it will give you an opportunity to check out the boot floor at the same time.

Lots of thread on them on here
I just had my top mounts replaced at the same time as the main bushes at the back. My car has done 103,600miles and the drivers side top mount was completely shot and in two pieces. Wouldn't surprise me if yours isn't the same.
The change is unbelievable, as said on another post on this site after I had the job done, " The silence is deafening"!!!
The valve I had replaced on the engine block was I think £22 plus another £30 to fix, including cleaning up the mess on the undertray etc.
Best of luck with getting the car sorted, as mentioned already loads of helpful advice on this forum to assist you.
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2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos black/black interior.

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  #24  
Old 26-09-2017, 03:56 PM
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Dave P Dave P is offline
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Looking good


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  #25  
Old 26-09-2017, 04:28 PM
Chris W Chris W is offline
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Looking good


Thanks! Turned a few heads on the ferry.
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  #26  
Old 26-09-2017, 04:30 PM
Chris W Chris W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petecossie View Post
I just had my top mounts replaced at the same time as the main bushes at the back. My car has done 103,600miles and the drivers side top mount was completely shot and in two pieces. Wouldn't surprise me if yours isn't the same.
The change is unbelievable, as said on another post on this site after I had the job done, " The silence is deafening"!!!
The valve I had replaced on the engine block was I think £22 plus another £30 to fix, including cleaning up the mess on the undertray etc.
Best of luck with getting the car sorted, as mentioned already loads of helpful advice on this forum to assist you.
Fingers crossed. I've passed all this info on to my mechanic who has the car now. Thanks for tips.
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  #27  
Old 27-09-2017, 11:10 PM
Chris W Chris W is offline
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Thanks for your help and advice. After having a good look around the car we have a game plan.
For the last 2 years I have been restoring a 71 BMW 2002tii and any spare funds will be going to finishing that. (Believe it or not, new parts for Z3's are so cheap in comparison!)

Going to give the car a good service next week, sort out the oil leak which turns out to be small and likely to be what you guys where talking about.
Then leave the car as is until the 02 is finished, hopefully January/Febuary.
Then the fun will begin. We plan to get the car back to original spec.
So sort the top mounts.
Get rid of the Remus exhaust, BMW ones are pricey so probably get one that looks just the same, a local place 'Street Racer' custom makes them. Apparently they do a great job.
Get rid of the hard suspension. It has Bilstein shocks which I suspect are sports plus one, will go to either softer Bilsteins or get new BMW stock ones.
The car has Poly bushes fitted all round. Again I suspect these are the firm racing type and not the softer ones. So it would be good the swap these.
Get rid of the short shifter, I'm not a fan of the way it feels or looks.
New clutch, Its making a slight noise, although feels ok.
And then get a respray and get the wheels restored.
After all that, it should cost around £5k. Then the car will be A1.
Once I get the ball rolling I'll start a build thread in the Journal group and keep you all up to speed on how its all going.
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2013 M135i

Last edited by Chris W; 27-09-2017 at 11:15 PM.
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  #28  
Old 28-09-2017, 06:15 AM
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ian ian is offline
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Good plan, reverting to virtually OEM is the way to go.

Good luck.
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  #29  
Old 28-09-2017, 07:17 AM
mnbrennan mnbrennan is offline
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Congratulations on the purchase

I've enjoyed reading this thread, this is what a car community should be about rather than some of the bickering which happens on here.

Looking forward to the build thread
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  #30  
Old 28-09-2017, 02:19 PM
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Dave P Dave P is offline
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look forward to the rebuild thread
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