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  • #16
    Originally posted by c_w View Post
    Yea 10mm all round is good for a flusher look. If you do got with 10mm ones I'd be interested to hear when it comes to fitting if they fit flush ok on the hubs or require the dust caps removing on the front. It's only about 0.5mm out; the spacer might look like it goes on ok but it can be "rocked" on the spigot rather than sitting square against the hub face. But it seems some cars don't have this problem.
    I need to get my front suspension sorted first and then i'll be ordering them so i'll let you know how I get on, thanks again for the help.

    Oli
    - Dakar Yellow S50

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    • #17
      Originally posted by c_w View Post
      Oh - and don't forget longer bolts! They are included in the kits 20mm(?) and thicker (as they bolt to the hub then you use your regular wheelbolts to bolt the wheel to the spare). Europerformance sell the longer bolts too (Grayston is the make). Factory length is 25mm (measure thread length) so you need 35mm if getting 10mm spacers (obviously! )
      Make sure you buy the 'single mould' type bolts though. Europerformance originally sent me ones where the head of the bolt was somehow attached afterwards and the bolt sheered really easily.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by c_w View Post
        The centre hubnut dust caps stick out too much (in fact the rear on mine was a bigger problem as it wasn't just the centre dust cap). Once you prize this cap out on the front (dead easy with a flat blade screw driver) they sit flat and proper on the hub. I did the same on the rear but still the spacer "rocked" slightly on the spigot and wouldn't sit flat (but was only a tiny amount) so I took a file to the spigot and gave it a bigger chamfer until the spacer sat squarely on it.
        I'm pretty sure my fronts don't have a dust cap, and I still have the problem. I'm in the process of fitting APs, which actually add a few mm anyway, so I'll be able to put the spacers on top of that.

        I forgot about all this and wonder why mine (and now it seems yours) has this "problem" when other people haven't? Could it be that people are running with a gap between the spacer and the hub and the wheel bolts have just tightend it up against the spigot(!).
        It's quite possible. I remember reading of cases where spacers have failed because the centre piece has broken off the plate: not something you'd generally expect to happen, but something that would be very likely if you did run spacers that didn't quite fit in this way.

        Paul

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        • #19
          Resurrecting an old thrwad here, but did anyone come to a conclusion over the 'rocking spacers' issue?

          I need to add a set of 10mm ones to the front to clear the new strut and see that H&R or Eibach seem to be the favorites. Any preference as to which?

          I only need spacers on the front, but should I do the rear as well?

          Lastly, I know I will need longer bolts, but what do people do about the locking bolts? Can you keep the stock ones just for the locking bolt or does this really need to be longer as well (I suspect so, but just wanted clarification). Do BMW make longer locking bolts and if not what is the preference?

          Thanks

          Si.

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          • #20
            You need longer locking bolts if you want to keep lock bolts. Not sure where to get them from though. Rear spacers at 10mm look good and would keep the stagger.

            I had the rocking issue all round, I removed the dust caps which solved the issue at the front but still had to take a file to the spigot on the rear to file a bit more of the taper.

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            • #21
              I am not convinced about the performance benefits of spacers other than looks unless you need to clear calipers, then it's all about necessity.

              anyone can enlighten me on the performance benefit?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by khooni View Post
                I am not convinced about the performance benefits of spacers other than looks unless you need to clear calipers, then it's all about necessity.

                anyone can enlighten me on the performance benefit?
                I agree, main use for me is aesthetics. As they widen the track in theory it should help with stability and grip but as your just spacing the wheels out rather than "proper" widened track (ie suspension pickup points widened instead) the difference isn't as marked as it should be. In theory it affects the scrub at the front as the steering rack/arms etc are all calculated based on the factory wheel offset, start going outside those arcs and it might affect it.

                There is also the argument that the spacers reduce effective spring rates as the wheel leverage is increased. Obviously with only 10mm spacers it shouldnt really affect things noticeably so the visual difference outweighs that IMO (for some reason even just 10mm is really obvious!!). After all a lot of people are fitting wheels with different [lower] offets which is just the same as fitting a spacer to the OE wheel.
                Last edited by c_w; 18-08-2009, 12:42 PM. Reason: grammar!

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                • #23
                  there is a performance benefit in that it works the diff more.

                  my mates brother races BTCC ( Jackson) now in the chevrolet with Plato and informed me that it works the diff more in corners and so the LSD giving improved tracktion.

                  I notice it on mine quite a bit. particularly when just pulling away with lots of lock.

                  not that I'm any driver to speak of but you can also notice it in corners when trying to push it on in perhaps too high a gear. It seems to bog it down a bit and would be better served in a lower gear.

                  by the way I run 10mm all round with no probs

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                  • #24
                    I changed the spacers on my 3 series the other day, reduced by 5mm front and back and I noticed the difference it had on the (virtual) spring rate, car feels like it rolls less in corners slightly - was surprised I could pick that up. Not noticed such a difference on the MC, probably because I've tweaked the dampers to compensate as much as possible.

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                    • #25
                      Good responses!

                      So the advice is if I need 10mm at the front, go 10mm all round to preserve the stagger and all bolts must be longer.

                      Any concensus on H&R versus Eibach? I note the problems people mentined were with Eibach. Any issues with H&R?

                      Thanks

                      Si.

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                      • #26
                        Longer wheel bolts definatly needed. Halfords are cheep enough macgaurd i think. 20 odd quid if I remember correctly Used to be 20 rear and 10 front on mine now 5mm front due to bigger disc bells
                        [GROWING OLD IS COMPULSARY ---- GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL

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                        • #27
                          I'm running 20mm H&R spacers all round with no problems - very high quality product.

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