Yes, and it's blo*dy expensive to put right! I thought the motor had gone on mine, took it to BMW and they told me the wiring loom needed replacing. Cost well over 1k!
I hope you have more luck than I did but be prepared for a shock.
I may have a cheaper fix, mine stopped due to a plug coming lose from shutting the tailgate. Remove the trim on the inside and check all the connections are OK. Mine came away again once fixed, I eventually used a ty wrap to keep it in place. Hope this cures it.
This happened to mine earlier this year and it was the wiring loom, the hinge had kinked and snapped the wires. BMW said that they made :shock: the replacement loom. It cost less than £200 all in. Luckily my warranty direct warranty covered it.
Lets hope they're as accomodating over getting my central locking fixed :wink:
99T Estoril Blue, Sunroof, HK Speakers, Cruise
Read my M Coupe experience @ Auto-Journals.com
It could be that a wire has snapped inside the rubber boot were the loom passes from the body shell to the hatch. I had a similar problem (described in lost forum data) with centre locking which became apparent when a new rear hatch was being fitted at the dealers back in February. They discovered the fault and carried out a repair, had no problems since.
Pete C
2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos Black Metallic/Black interior. 805 of 821 RHD built
Previous BMWs
2003 E46 M3 6 speed manual - Carbon Black/Black interior.
2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos Black Metallic/Black interior. 692 of 821 RHD built
1986 M635
1985 E28 M5
1983 E28 528i Alpina
Its taken all day today in the sun but its sorted. After spending £2250 on a double vanos and service at christmas (weeks after warranty expired of course) I was not too keen on retuning to a dealer to be told my wiring was dodgy. Although this did seem possible since driver side footwell speaker has also been misbehaving.
Shunt was correct about giving trim panel a good pull ( 9 big clips seems over kill but they didn't snap as often happens). There are a pair of 2 pin plugs connected to the motor. One with 2 large pins and the other with 2 small pins. I connected a bulb to both and established power was get there so that meant poor connection or something up with the motor. Cleaned and crimped pins which made no difference. So removed motor which was easy via three accessible bolts and cutting water pipe. Then removing one nut from base of wiper arm and disconning water pipe union.
Several small torx screws to removed to get into motor revealed a gooey mess of old grease, corrosion and water around cam and gears. Several hours of cleaning and regreasing and then testing before refitting and Bobs your uncle - for now. Hopefully I have cured the water problem.
I've got the same problem, except that I could hear the motor going whilst the wiper was stationary. Undid it all, to find that there's a plastic cog driving a screw wheel that drives the wiper. Bad news - the cogs have worn and I can't get just the cog. £103 for a new motor.. If you're interested, it's the same part number as the motor for the rear wiper on an "E46" Compact.
Yes I guess it would. Been a bit of an old git it never occured to me to get a digi camera out. I have put a fairly comprehensive description of the wiper motor job on a previous mail though.
Wiper was easy compared to CL which I'm affraid defeated me. Checked all 3 CL fuses but all OK. Checked all relays in the fuse box in case one of them connected to the CL. 2 did but had no effect on passenger side alone. Then I removed door panel quite easily. Cut through foam trim. Dismounted the air bag but left it connected. Removed inner door handle and removed bolts from locking mechanism. This simply loosened things. Despite having quite small hands I couldn't grab hold of electrics of remote opening mech. Plus its all obscured from view. I assume I would need to remove the outer door handle but decided to stop before damaging body work or getting in deeper than my limited knowledge allows.
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