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Brake cooling; removing disc "guard"?

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  • #31
    Originally posted by c_w View Post
    The tracking was set to parallel (I think that is factory setting?) about 18months or so ago when I fitted the quicker ratio 2.8 rack. Tyre wear on the road and on track is great (very even). I think some adjustable top mounts for some more caster/camber would help.

    I think changing tyres to something like T 888s would be the next thing as I think I was just pushing towards the edge of grip of the tyres. I also had 10mm wheel spacers fitted to the rear only which won't have helped!
    You'd be better fitting the spacers up front for performance although cosmetically they look better on the rear.

    If you've got H&R ARBs, you could try fitting the drop links to the stiffer setting at the rear too.
    /// Exdos ///
    "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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    • #32
      Yea, just fitting the spacers on the front would make it theorectically understeer a little less. I should have just removed the rear ones but didn't get round to it.

      I don't want to increase the roll stiffness anymore really as you can feel it's working as spring on most roads that aren't smooth, plus it'd make it too skittish IMO. Ideally it would need the front geometry altering but it's great on the road and tyre wear on track is great so it's not far out.

      My car handles very well around Donington though, and I was very pleased with it (it's the same "setup" as last year's Donington day where it was fine too), but I would not use this as an indicator to how it handles on track in general as Donington is a very smooth, fast circuit and really test the car as much as other circuits; at Oulton Park in June, my car felt too soft and wallowy in slow speed corners and I didn't really have a lot of confidence in it; I would say I need stiffer springs to reduce the pitching and squat.
      Last edited by c_w; 05-11-2007, 01:00 PM.

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      • #33
        Treat yourself to KW V3.
        /// Exdos ///
        "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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        • #34
          Originally posted by c_w View Post
          What I've done is used the current brake ducts in the bumper by cutting a hole in the inner sides of them and feeding the piping into it. I blocked the rear of the original bumper brake ducts so that the air has to go through the new brake ducting
          Have you got any photos of this? Am I correct in reading that you did not make any bracket or vents for the 'feed' end of the cooling hose, but found a way to fit it to the existing vents on the bumper?

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          • #35
            Originally posted by DavidC View Post
            Have you got any photos of this? Am I correct in reading that you did not make any bracket or vents for the 'feed' end of the cooling hose, but found a way to fit it to the existing vents on the bumper?
            Yes I just cut into the sides of the existing ducts and fed them in a u-bend shape around the wheel arch liner and up behind the brake discs. To remove the existing ducts, drop down the arch liner and they simply pull out (they are clipped into the bumper from behind). I cut a round hole about half way down the duct on the inside of each duct and fed the hosing into it. I then cut the hose that was inside the duct and it natrually fans out wards and pressed agains the inside of the duct so it won't move.

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            • #36
              Brake Ducting Required

              After a very good, but very juddery and I'd say warped day at Donington Saturday, this thread has been my monday morning reading material. Those OEM discs really do suffer from the heat generated huh. I'm now running Ferodo DS2500 pads on (relatively) new OEM discs (they've been to S'stone and Brands Indy) and I think now need replacing. Oh dear.
              As mentioned in this thread, the stopping power is actually fine with OEM discs and the DS2500s (for my driving style) have proven a better buy and more rewarding than the trusted Yellowstuffs.
              Only drama is the heat generated, Exdos's mod seems to be the solution. Question is, is it intuitive enough for my Indy Mechanic to put together - I don't have the tools or skill to do the job DIY sadly.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by Bruski_11 View Post
                Only drama is the heat generated, Exdos's mod seems to be the solution. Question is, is it intuitive enough for my Indy Mechanic to put together - I don't have the tools or skill to do the job DIY sadly.
                It's a doddle! Just show him the photos and he should be able to sort something out for you.
                /// Exdos ///
                "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                • #38
                  I found DS2500 to provide really bad judder for me when pushed, one thing I never have had with the Yellows! Funny how similar or same setups and cars/drivers can provide varying results.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by exdos View Post
                    It's a doddle! Just show him the photos and he should be able to sort something out for you.
                    Good idea exdos, I'll do just that. I spoke to him this morning and he was talking about fabricating something based on his older E46 race car (he's building an e90 at the moment - a good project!) - he picked up immediately on the back plates and on drawing air from beneath the bumper so I think we're all on the right track if you mind the pun.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by c_w View Post
                      I found DS2500 to provide really bad judder for me when pushed, one thing I never have had with the Yellows! Funny how similar or same setups and cars/drivers can provide varying results.
                      Interesting, they were juddering a bit at Brands (an evening session only in 30+ heat as was Donington so air temp was very high already) before going really juddery on Sat. Maybe pagids next time. Hmmmmm.
                      On a positive note the new weichers brace (thanks Chris for instructions, was simple once that final top nut was released) does bring a sharper response on turn on IMHO. It does pull the car on dips in the road a lot more but I think the masochist in me likes that! Its even more alive than before

                      Hope yours is coming back together ok.

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                      • #41
                        I don't really notice any differe nce with the strut brace but I like how it looks

                        My car looks a lot better, thanks! I spent the whole day yesterday with a friend taking out the dents and touching up the scratches as much as we could. Lots of touch up paint and some dents he couldn't remove but as said it is a huge improvement considering the impact. The c-pillar is the only bit we struggled with and couldn't sort out.

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                        • #42
                          I concur with that assessment. Thanks for the instructions too btw. See attached.

                          Good to hear re: the motor getting back together.
                          Last edited by Bruski_11; 25-07-2013, 03:10 PM.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Bruski_11 View Post
                            Good idea exdos, I'll do just that. I spoke to him this morning and he was talking about fabricating something based on his older E46 race car (he's building an e90 at the moment - a good project!) - he picked up immediately on the back plates and on drawing air from beneath the bumper so I think we're all on the right track if you mind the pun.
                            I've just replaced the tyres so took the opportunity for a few photos of the ducting...

                            DSC_0132 by brucet76, on Flickr

                            DSC_0133 by brucet76, on Flickr

                            DSC_0134 by brucet76, on Flickr

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                            • #44
                              That looks nice and neat. Personally I would cut the metal rings on the bumper intake, as you cut them the duct will spread out to the duct edges and make a better guide for air. I'd also spray some matt black in there and it'll be hidden.

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                              • #45
                                that's a great call Chris. When first fitted the opening pointed straight out but anything over 50mph for a few seconds and they back against the side. We thought out about fabricating a mould off the back as well but that would take a bit of work.
                                The matt black is a good idea, esp' if the above idea works out - altho the big orange pipes sticking out do add an element of purpose or a rather a statement of intent to the front ducts.

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