Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Number Plate Removal

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Number Plate Removal

    Having recently purchased my first Z3MC I am looking to replace the original number plates with personal ones.

    Does anyone have a guide or is able to tell me how to do this please? I can't find anything in the forum knowledge base section.

    Many thanks.
    COH555
    1998, S50, Artic, Imola/Black Leather
    2002 Ducati 748, Red
    West Kent

  • #2
    Do you mean physically changing the plates or the transfer of plates with the DVLA?!

    If you mean the former, if still as standard they are just screwed on so really easy. The only problem with the rears is that the grommets may have deteriorated - I think Dave P recently had some for sale.

    One tip would be to make sure you keep hold of the mounting plates as these will also come away when you undo the screws!
    Last edited by Spooks; 17-05-2013, 02:08 PM.
    2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

    Comment


    • #3
      here's how they attach,








      As Ian says the rear are attached via "blind nuts" which are known to fall into the rear hatch when removing the old plates which means replacing them. Front plates are normally screwed at each top corner.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks chaps.

        Yes, I was referring physically changing the plates.

        Both front and rear have the mounting plates Spooks refered to.

        Thanks for the guidance.

        COH555
        COH555
        1998, S50, Artic, Imola/Black Leather
        2002 Ducati 748, Red
        West Kent

        Comment


        • #5
          Pictures really do say a thousand words - especially when compared to predictive text on a phone!

          When referring to keeping hold of the mounting plates, I meant when you unscrew the screws put you hand underneath, they can easily drop down and will chip/mark easily when they hit the ground
          2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by NottsLad
            I am trying to access the rear number plate screws - I'm guessing the are hidden behind the plate (screwed from the inside). I'm fairly sure I've lost a screw and the plate holder is held on solely with tape - which is coming away at one end.

            Snag - I can't remove the plastic cover (which is rattling) which houses the pull down handle/latch etc. Help required before I lose my plate. Not the most technically demanding problem but pointers appreciated.
            it shouldn't be screwed from the rear! as the access when the inner trim panel is removed isn't great.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks Dave - the rear internal trim has been rattling for a while now (one mystery solved tonight once my old eyes had found the screws). However, my rear plate and it's mount were held on only with double-sided tape which has deteriorated with age (another rattle solved). I assumed the lack of holes meant it was attached from the back but as you say - wrong. Quick fix with more tape tomorrow and replacement screws to come. A single black rubber grommet has fallen out which I assume is from the plate - there appears to be no other fastening method?

              Minor rattles apart (both now sorted) and the fact that the plate came away in my hand (cheaper than on the road), the car is in great order. Just over a year owned and I still stood like a schoolboy staring at the newly washed beast - you can't beat Imola Red gleaming in the sunshine!

              Comment


              • #8
                be careful as i think the plate holder rattling, can cause the paint to wear off/thin between the holder and the boot, as it is very close / touching in that area! could use some tape to pad it or similar

                Click here to email me

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think the last 'fix' possibly took that into account as the tape is quite thick; I can see where the rub would be. Thanks for that.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by NottsLad View Post
                    A single black rubber grommet has fallen out which I assume is from the plate - there appears to be no other fastening method?
                    These are what you secure the plate and its holder to the boot lid via screws. They often fail and drop inside the boot lid. Replace these, get the screws and you will be fine
                    2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I added some super glue to the rubber blind nuts when I replaced my old ones and this did stop them falling into the boot lid when swapping over to new plates (as can been seen in picture)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dave P View Post
                        I added some super glue to the rubber blind nuts when I replaced my old ones and this did stop them falling into the boot lid when swapping over to new plates (as can been seen in picture)
                        Good idea. I think the problem with mine in the past has been that the front face of the rubber has pulled away from the back so probably would have fallen back in anyway!
                        2002 '52 S54 - Titanium Silver with 18" BBS LMs, AP Racing BBK, KW V3, H&R anti roll bars & ACS flippers (previously 2000 'X' S50 - Arctic Silver)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Morning guys
                          Can anyone offer any suggestions ? - the screws on my number plate are extremely rusty and appear to be rust-locked in the hidden nuts. So however much I turn the screws the backs turn as well and the screws do not come out. I have sprayed with WD40 but as I am unable to get any pliers or grips on the backs this hasn't helped. Is my only option to drill out the screws ?
                          Many thanks
                          Kevin

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Spider View Post
                            Morning guys
                            Can anyone offer any suggestions ? - the screws on my number plate are extremely rusty and appear to be rust-locked in the hidden nuts. So however much I turn the screws the backs turn as well and the screws do not come out. I have sprayed with WD40 but as I am unable to get any pliers or grips on the backs this hasn't helped. Is my only option to drill out the screws ?
                            Many thanks
                            Kevin
                            If you can drill the heads off the bolts the rest should just drop off into the hatch void,

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X