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  • #16
    Fat Tony,

    The genuine ACS Short Shift kit looks something like the Rogue Engineering kit in the photo below. I've seen it fitted and tried it whilst the MC was parked and it does make the gear throw shorter/quicker.

    You can also get ACS and BMW weighted gear knobs, as well as Storm and others which are shorter in length than OEM which help with gear changing (I have a BMW non-illuminated one). Personally, I don't like metal gearknobs because they're either too cold or too hot to touch, although they can look good.

    The OEM 5-speed gearbox is a very notchy changer and IMO it's the worst thing about the MC, and it's saving grace is its reputation of durability and capable of withstanding the power of the ///M engine


    /// Exdos ///
    "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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    • #17
      AC Schnitzer supplied a kit which consisted of a special gear shift and aluminium gear knob "short shift" part number 98 02 5 113 715 which cost £555. you could also buy just a gear knob but it didn't say short shift on it. dont think the z3m kit is available anymore only for normal z3's.

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      • #18
        Thanks for the info gents (again)

        So, without removing the gaitor and having a nosey, I think it's safe to assume that my MC has the normal shift linkage with an ACS gear knob fitted, rather than the full short shift kit. Pity ACS have discontinued the kit for the MC, Dave. I think that would now be on my shopping list

        exdos, yeah I'm finding the notchy shifting is taking some getting used to, especially in conjunction with the clutch that seems a little on/off on my MC. Isn't spoiling the fun though

        Off to look at the Rogue Engineering offering then...
        Last edited by Fat Tony; 19-01-2011, 06:08 PM. Reason: iPhone autocorrect changed Dave to Davenport, lol
        Not actually in the least bit fat

        2000 S50 Titanium Silver / Black
        ACS Suspension, Exhaust & Type III Wheels
        Simota carbon air intake | Strong Strut Front Brace

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Fat Tony View Post

          exdos, yeah I'm finding the notchy shifting is taking some getting used to, especially in conjunction with the clutch that seems a little on/off on my MC. Isn't spoiling the fun though
          Tony,

          First, you should replace the OEM clutch hose with a braided clutch hose (available from Earls at Silverstone) and you'll get a noticeable improvement in clutch performance.
          /// Exdos ///
          "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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          • #20
            Have to agree I would change to a braided hose first ;-)




            I've always disliked metal gear sticks and have tried quite a few different types on my Z.

            The ZHP leather short shift stick is very popular in the states and does feel good but I've settled on a metal one in the end which is by far the best feel when driving (its sooooo much heavier than all the others I tried):

            AC Schnitzer short shift






            ZHP Leather






            AC Schnitzer Digital






            AC Schnitzer "Blackline" Anniversary




            and my fav - Storm Motorworks v1 Titanium (matches the S54 gauges as well ;-)





            VIDEO or Journal

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            • #21
              I had the shorter, weighted M leather gearknob for a week or so but didn't like it and prefered the standard knob. I found the "notchyness" gets relatively notchier with a shorter knob if that makes sense as the leverage is reduced.

              The best way to improve the gearchange is to change the gearbox oil (AMSOIL Synthetic MTF) and the braided/brake line (the oil change makes the most difference though!!)

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              • #22
                I was wondering, if it would be possible to engineer a weighted spacer, that would be put between stick and the know. It could raise the knob for and 1" or 1.5", and weight would make it shift smoother. I think it could be done and would love to have it.

                That would be ideal to use with AM shortshifter kit, or with 6 speed + original shift stick (as per me). This way raising the knob would give a bit longer moves, which are in the cases above pretty brutal short.

                Originally posted by c_w View Post
                I had the shorter, weighted M leather gearknob for a week or so but didn't like it and prefered the standard knob. I found the "notchyness" gets relatively notchier with a shorter knob if that makes sense as the leverage is reduced.

                The best way to improve the gearchange is to change the gearbox oil (AMSOIL Synthetic MTF) and the braided/brake line (the oil change makes the most difference though!!)

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by inside View Post
                  I was wondering, if it would be possible to engineer a weighted spacer, that would be put between stick and the know. It could raise the knob for and 1" or 1.5", and weight would make it shift smoother. I think it could be done and would love to have it.

                  That would be ideal to use with AM shortshifter kit, or with 6 speed + original shift stick (as per me). This way raising the knob would give a bit longer moves, which are in the cases above pretty brutal short.

                  Like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z78jN3oG0Gs at 00:57seconds

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by inside View Post
                    I was wondering, if it would be possible to engineer a weighted spacer, that would be put between stick and the know. It could raise the knob for and 1" or 1.5", and weight would make it shift smoother. I think it could be done and would love to have it.

                    That would be ideal to use with AM shortshifter kit, or with 6 speed + original shift stick (as per me). This way raising the knob would give a bit longer moves, which are in the cases above pretty brutal short.
                    If you raise the height of the gear knob, then you are increasing the distance that your hand would have to move from the gear lever resting in, say, 3rd to resting in 4th, and this would mean that your hand would have to move faster to accomplish gear changes in the same time as it takes at the OEM length.

                    Increasing the length of the gear lever would inherently increase the leverage, so adding weight to the gear stick at the same time would considerably increase the leverage applied, but it wouldn't make the gear changing any quicker unless your hand moves faster through the longer travel. I understand that weighting the gear lever can "over-balance" the lever which can put strain on the gear linkage mechanism causing expensive damage to the gearbox.

                    Surely, the idea of shortening the height of the gear lever is to shorten the distance that your hand needs travel between shifts, thus making the gear changes a bit quicker, however, shortening the length of the gear lever reduces the mechanical leverage, thus making the effort the driver needs top apply to change gear greater? The reason why you add weight to the gear knob is to compensate for the loss of leverage by shortening the gear lever.

                    c_w, Yes, a nice sequential box would be the answer
                    /// Exdos ///
                    "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by exdos View Post
                      If you raise the height of the gear knob, then you are increasing the distance that your hand would have to move from the gear lever resting in, say, 3rd to resting in 4th, and this would mean that your hand would have to move faster to accomplish gear changes in the same time as it takes at the OEM length.

                      Increasing the length of the gear lever would inherently increase the leverage, so adding weight to the gear stick at the same time would considerably increase the leverage applied, but it wouldn't make the gear changing any quicker unless your hand moves faster through the longer travel. I understand that weighting the gear lever can "over-balance" the lever which can put strain on the gear linkage mechanism causing expensive damage to the gearbox.

                      Surely, the idea of shortening the height of the gear lever is to shorten the distance that your hand needs travel between shifts, thus making the gear changes a bit quicker, however, shortening the length of the gear lever reduces the mechanical leverage, thus making the effort the driver needs top apply to change gear greater? The reason why you add weight to the gear knob is to compensate for the loss of leverage by shortening the gear lever.

                      c_w, Yes, a nice sequential box would be the answer

                      I understand this quite well. The reasons for this suggestion are the following:
                      - make shifting smoother
                      - increate shift throws a bit
                      - have a shifter bit closer to the steering wheel

                      Why would you want to increase the throw? Well, the thing is MC has stock a stock short shift, which many find pleasent enough. If you add another SS to this, or e.g. you use stock SS with 6-speed box, the throws are a bit one the short side IMHO, for a non dedicated track car. It comes hand in hand with increased notchiness/resistance.

                      Therefore, in cases above, this spacer would be a nice compromise to move things in direction higher/smoother/less brutal throws. And at 1.5", I'm sure throws would be still shorter than with stock MC SS.

                      Sequential stick mechanism would be nice tough! It's best of both worlds - you can still use clutch any way you want, and shift speed is also very good. Me like ;)

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                      • #26
                        I see where you're coming from. If you were to lengthen the gear lever, wouldn't you automatically increase the leverage without the need to make the spacer weighted? As I said, I understand that weighting the gear knob can cause problems to the linkage/gearbox.
                        /// Exdos ///
                        "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

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