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  #51  
Old 27-02-2012, 06:48 PM
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its the same as a E36 compact motor so normally plenty of used ones on ebay cheap
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  #52  
Old 19-03-2017, 09:51 PM
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2010 :
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Originally Posted by guido View Post
Only available via dealers for £184.01 - any other options?
2017 : Rear wiper motor now at £322.96 from Rybrook BMW...

https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-s...per-Motor.html

My fix lasted nearly 4 years but the plastic gear cog/wheel wore down again as the spindle mechanism seized, then replaced again in 2014 with a new motor, I might look at replacing it with something less pliable - and then use the wiper sparingly!

Last edited by guido; 02-06-2017 at 02:55 PM.
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  #53  
Old 02-06-2017, 10:41 AM
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Lightbulb Rear washer motor fix

Just to update on this, I ordered a new rear washer motor assembly (308€/£268 from www.leebmann24.de) and a second hand one in good condition to work on for £25.
After getting the old washer motor off the car and taken apart it was clear to see that it was knackered due to water ingress, rust had caused it to seize.



The design is nothing other than poor, at some point these washer motors will fail, dependant on how often it is used. This is due to how the water entering the assembly is fed through the centre of the main spindle, the spindle just butts-up against the water inlet feed, effectively allowing water to pass beside it and enter the main assemble eventually causing it to rust and fail.

So I looked for a solution rather than having to buy a new rear washer motor every few years. I decided the best way was to feed a washer pipe through the assembly, directly inside the spindle.
Directions:
1 - first remove the rear wiper arm by lifting the cover cap and undoing the 13mm retaining nut on the spindle and lifting the wiper arm off,
2 - next remove the boot hatch card, undo the two retaining screws located in the handle, you will then need to pull firmly on the card to pop out the plastic push fit retaining rivets, using a non marking plastic trim tool is best for leverage on this,
3 - with the boot hatch card removed, the rear washer motor assembly will now be visible, first disconnect the washer fluid pipe at the point where it attaches to the non-return valve (if you have one fitted),
4 - then disconnect the wires to the electrical connectors on the assembly,
5 - remove the 3x 10mm retaining bolts that secure the assembly to the boot lid, the assembly will then be freed,
6 - disassemble the motor by unscrewing the 7 torx screws and pull the two halves apart,
7 - now remove the spindle, it should just pull out of the casing and plastic gearing cog if not too badly rusted in place – remember how each and every part fits in place before doing so or take a picture for later reference - At this point I cleaned up the inside of the assembly, removing any rust or old grease that was present as I was using the second hand motor, I also soaked the spindle in a Hammerite rust removing solution overnight (great stuff - http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pai...over-dip-500ml) It is the spindle mechanism that rusts and seizes eventually causing the motor to fail and fill your tailgate with water,
8 - with the spindle and mechanism clean I then used a 5mm drill to drill out the inside of the spindle to remove all the black plastic inside, including the black plastic nipple on the end, this nipple is used to attach to a push-fit cap on the washer arm pipe located underneath the washer arm cover but will no longer be needed,
9 - an 8mm hole then needs to be drilled in the black plastic inlet housing on the outer casing, this will allow the washer pipe to pass through without nipping it as it rotates under washing,





10 - in the pictures I used a 3,2mm I.D clear plastic pipe from Halfords which needed a fair amount of squeezing and pinching to feed it through the spindle (http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...c5-washer-tube) however I will be replacing this with black tubing as the clear looks out of place when viewed from the rear of the car (https://www.moddiy.com/products/High...-5mm-OD)-.html)



11 - feed the pipe through the spindle and the new hole in the black inlet on the outer casing, leaving enough pipe free in order to cut to fit later, 50cm on either side should be more than plenty,





12 - reassemble the motor, remembering to grease all moving parts with a silicon based grease that is safe on plastics, bolt the assembly back in place on the hatch, cut the pipe that leads from the rear of the assemble/black inlet to length so it will fit over the non-return valve and secure using a spring clip (http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co...amp-1294-p.asp)





13 – from the outside of the hatch the pipe should now feed out through the spindle arm. On the washer arm, remove the black rubber pipe that attaches to the washer nozzle at one end and the push-on cap that originally fitted over the nipple located on the end of the spindle,



14 - feed the washer pipe protruding from the spindle through the hole in the washer arm, also remembering to fit the washer arm securing nut, align the rear washer arm,
15 - secure the washer arm in place and feed the pipe through the washer arm, it will need to pass through the retaining spring in the arm and on to the washer nozzle, as the original pipe fitted,



16 - check to make sure everything is working and reassemble...

Last edited by guido; 22-06-2017 at 06:43 PM.
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  #54  
Old 02-06-2017, 11:34 AM
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Blimey


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  #55  
Old 02-06-2017, 02:08 PM
guido guido is offline
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Quote:
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Blimey


Exactly what I thought when I opened it up.
Brand new, installed in 2014 and the wash function had probably only been used 5 or 6 times. Shocking to think the design was ever given the green light.
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  #56  
Old 22-06-2017, 06:33 PM
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Minor update.
I have now replaced the clear silicon piping shown in the pics with black to match OEM piping, now looks no different to standard from the rear. Has been used now a number of times with great, non-leaky results!
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