Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

brake problems after the 'Ring....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    Originally posted by c_w View Post
    Try repeating that several times on a track
    That's what I'm referring to

    Stopping from 140mph+ produced a brake temperature of over 250 degs C on my MC with Yellow Stuff pads and brake cooling ducting, but that's still not annealing temperature of cast iron and nowhere near its melting point of over 1150degs C. FYI, my tyres were at around 75degrees C when that figure was recorded.
    Last edited by exdos; 12-10-2008, 11:23 AM.
    /// Exdos ///
    "Men who try the impossible and fail spectacularly are infinitely superior to those who reach for nothing and succeed" --Napoleon Bonapart

    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by exdos View Post
      That's what I'm referring to

      Stopping from 140mph+ produced a brake temperature of over 250 degs C on my MC with Yellow Stuff pads and brake cooling ducting, but that's still not annealing temperature of cast iron and nowhere near its melting point of over 1150degs C. FYI, my tyres were at around 75degrees C when that figure was recorded.
      I think with vibration issues, the absolute temperature isn't the main problem but it's probably a lot down to thermal "shock" causing uneven temperatures in the disc (probably the outside of the disc surface getting very hot but the inner parts not so warm. Braking from high speed on the motorway with cold brakes is the reason this often causes problems IMO, not the temprature reached because if you warmed the brakes up so the whole disc if up to temp they seem to work better than just doing one high speed stop from cold. The 'Ring is a good example I think as you can't do an "outlap" to warm brakes up and often I found that even with my "good" setup the brakes felt a little unsmooth for the first few uses (from the first part which is high speed) but once more heat was in they actually felt better and smoother.

      Comment


      • #48
        Hi all,

        Í'm now ordering the yellowstuff pads (as well as using some track-focussed brade fluid). I'll be at Brands Hatch on November 25th so will let you all know how I get on!

        I thought the observation of 'Ring not allowing a proper warm-up was quite well made as well.

        Thanks again!
        Adgild

        Comment


        • #49
          Hmmm, interesting thread. My MC is currently suffering quite a bit of vibration under heavy braking (not at all if I'm just cruising around but if the brakes are used quite a bit and get some heat in them it's pretty bad)

          The previous owner fitted EBC discs and redstuff pads. Shortly in to my ownership I realised that the front calipers were binding a bit, so had them serviced. I was about to order new OEM disks but I think I'll try giving these EBC discs a good clean and try that bedding in process to see if that makes a difference first. I know EBC discs aren't all that well regarded but worth a try I guess.
          Not actually in the least bit fat

          2000 S50 Titanium Silver / Black
          ACS Suspension, Exhaust & Type III Wheels
          Simota carbon air intake | Strong Strut Front Brace

          Comment


          • #50
            You won't regret buying a brand new pad of genuine OEM discs and starting afresh with EBC Yellowstuff (not red, but maybe consider Bluestuff NDX) for smooth braking.

            Comment

            Working...
            X