Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Keith's Dakar Z3 M Coupe - Progress Update with Pics.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Keith, thanks for the door card advice - even I should be able to do a reasonable job based on those detailed instructions. All I need now is some better weather to get to the car!
    2000 Dakar Yellow

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by -Keith- View Post
      As for the mirror, it sounds simple. I think the gear on the motor has skiiped a couple teeth on the mirror platform... You will need to remove the glass and just skip it back a few so you can regain outward adjustment, if that makes sense.
      ...
      It can only be that, if it still works both ways.

      I'll take a look thanks. not sure if that is it though - the mirror glass seems to be all the way our in the outside housing - it is almost like the whole stalk/mirror is slightly rotated.

      Car is (hopefully) going to CPC at the weekend for a few bits and pieces, so I'll ask them to take a look...

      Thanks!
      '99 Imola S50 | Simota | Front strut | Braided clutch cable | Bilstein B8 and H&R springs

      Comment


      • #33
        Base plates are now done, and I must say... I'm properly chuffed with the finish.

        Process I used was;
        1. Sand down and prep.
        2. Primed (using acid etch primer) and sanded with wet and dry 800/1200
        3. Primed and sanded with wet and dry 800/1200 again
        4. Paint with colour and lightly prep with 1200 for super smooth finish
        5. Paint again
        6. Clear lacquer x2 coats
        7. Wax up with Collinite 476s

        All that was done over 4 days, to allow each coat to harden, so that it would 'sand' better with each wet and dry process. Patience is key (or a paint oven, which I didn't have). After trying to paint items before (with varying degrees off success), I have now perfected my rattle can / DIY spraying ... It can be frustratingly tricky to get a decent finish using a can; the nozzle doesn't really give the fine spray a proper gun would.

        Anyway. Results;

        BEFORE




        AFTER





        You can see in the reflection that 'orange peel' appearance is minimal.




        I honestly think the finish is not far short of what a bodyshop could have achieved. Did I mention how chuffed I was?

        All items were meticulously cleaned before remounting;




        And back on the car;








        Must say, Halfords did me proud on the colour match. It's identical. After getting back on the car, my happiness was cut short when I tried to use the electric adjustment. Nothing :cry: . After fearing that I had rewired it wrong, luckily it turned out to be the first thing I checked. A blown fuse...

        Got the confidence to do other small items now. If I go black grills and black side fins, the only remaining chrome piece on the car will be the chrome boot handle. I've seen this in black on Kiwi's car, but to me, in black, it looks a little like a Hitler moustache on a Simpson... (sorry Kiwi, no offence intended mate - I love the de-wiper and coded roof spoiler)

        Make up your own mind;




        Because IMO black looks a little odd, I may well try and do the boot handle Dakar. We'll see.

        Had some black grills on order from the States, although after waiting a week, I received an email saying they were the last set he had in stock, and were damaged. The fella offered me a discount for the inconvenience when he gets some more in, but I'm not sure I can wait. I may just try find another seller. Or buy some OE ones and code the outers... Thoughts?

        Also ordered some Rogue Top Mounts from James at Redish Motorsport, so I look forward to getting those on sometime soon.

        Thanks for reading.

        PS - I will be doing a DIY for the mirror refurb for those who wish to try

        Ex-Dakar MC Owner - Gone But Not Forgotten

        Comment


        • #34
          Keith, this is an excellent thread with fantastic informative detail.

          Keep it up!

          I fancy a Dakar one me-self now.

          I'm not feeling the gear knob though...
          Out: 99 S50 Titan Silver V876 KKO
          In: 98 S50 Estoril.......

          Comment


          • #35
            Thanks man.

            The gearknob? Fair enough, we all like different things, which is why all of our cars are so great

            ...But I wish you could feel it. It weighs 520g, and adds such conviction to each gear throw - it transforms the changes.

            Ex-Dakar MC Owner - Gone But Not Forgotten

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by -Keith- View Post
              Thanks man.

              The gearknob? Fair enough, we all like different things, which is why all of our cars are so great

              ...But I wish you could feel it. It weighs 520g, and adds such conviction to each gear throw - it transforms the changes.
              Cool.

              If it has function over form it doesnt matter what it looks like.
              Out: 99 S50 Titan Silver V876 KKO
              In: 98 S50 Estoril.......

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by h4pry View Post
                Cool.

                If it has function over form it doesnt matter what it looks like.
                Agreed.

                Well I'd draw the line at something pink or shaped like a cock...

                Ex-Dakar MC Owner - Gone But Not Forgotten

                Comment


                • #38
                  Guys, if you have a two tone interior I would recommend a german company for exact colour matches (I found these from German boards)

                  Have a look at this thread for more details ;-)

                  http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21648

                  nb I've done this on my first ///M with estoril leather which was quite bad after 80,000 miles and to a lessor extend on my current imola interior, both perfect matches.

                  Great Job Keith on the wing mirrors but I have been told of cases of the body seizing and breaking when trying to twist it resulting in whole new mirror body being needed so be careful with this stage.
                  Last edited by Jonttt; 08-01-2010, 07:58 PM.
                  VIDEO or Journal

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Jonttt View Post
                    Great Job Keith on the wing mirrors but I have been told of cases of the body seizing and breaking when trying to twist it resulting in whole new mirror body being needed so be careful with this stage.
                    Cheers Jonttt

                    I suppose like anything there is a risk of breaking... but unless you try, the bases will never get sorted!

                    I can imagine people trying to twist them without pulling them out first - this is essential as they are spring loaded with quite a sturdy spring. As long as this is done, there is little to prevent the mirror from twisting or breaking. If you feel it's really really seized, you could always insert the straw of an aerosol WD40 directly to the spring (spraying between body and base will do absolutely nothing).

                    The area the straw will need to be positioned to reach the actual spring/hinge is circled in the image below.




                    Again, my opinion is that if you pull the mirror out enough from the body before twisting, there should be no problem - lubrication may help, but I'm almost certain most problems with breaking arise because of not pulling the mirror out. When you twist the mirror back after refitting the hex head bolts, it's 'snaps' back into position closes itself by a good 4-5mm. This would suggest if you pull it out by such a distance, you should be able to twist no problem
                    Last edited by -Keith-; 08-01-2010, 08:56 PM.

                    Ex-Dakar MC Owner - Gone But Not Forgotten

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Keith, may well be the case that people were not aware that you have to pull outwards first and they blamed it seizing after they broke it? In any case it makes it much easier with pics like yours for people to see how it should work so no excuses now
                      VIDEO or Journal

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Jonttt View Post
                        Keith, may well be the case that people were not aware that you have to pull outwards first and they blamed it seizing after they broke it? In any case it makes it much easier with pics like yours for people to see how it should work so no excuses now
                        May well be mate - it's a silly design in all honestly, especially as the oxidisation is a problem (although I guess this wasn't known about during design). As the body is one piece, if you break any part of the mirror, a completely new, entire unit is required... Stupid really. Expensive too no doubt, when you consider the number of components in an entire unit, and then factor in ///M tax!

                        I guess just to take care when doing it!

                        Am I right in assuming your bases are lovely and fresh then Jonttt...


                        (Very) Minor Update...
                        I had noticed whilst washing the car before, that the fuel cap cavity would fill up with water like a basin and not drain away... Obviously a blockage, but I kept forgetting to see to it. Well I checked it out yesterday.

                        In the end I got some electrical multicore cable (flexible but strong), located what should have been the drainage hole and fed it inside. I then added a few drops washing up liquid, and poured in some boiling water. After a few bubbles, the lot disappeared - problem solved. To dissolve/dislodge anything that the hot water and detergent hadn't, I pored in some neat antifreeze in the hope that the solvent would see to any remaining grime. Once I had flushed it through a number of times, the liquid was clearing quickly as it should.

                        The rest of the cavity (including the fuel cap itself) was then given the obligatory scrub with some G101 (strong detergent used by detailers to clean trim etc). That 5l bottle I bought is paying for itself quickly...

                        I then noticed that the fuel flap on the body was not sitting as flush as I'd like. This was annoying.

                        A few gentle tugs outward on the shoulder that the cap rests on when closed, and the cap now sits how it should. Or how I think it should at least. Simple, but satisfying. Might be worth checking yours - only take seconds to sort.

                        Before;


                        After;
                        Last edited by -Keith-; 09-01-2010, 08:55 AM.

                        Ex-Dakar MC Owner - Gone But Not Forgotten

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by -Keith- View Post
                          May well be mate - it's a silly design in all honestly, especially as the oxidisation is a problem (although I guess this wasn't known about during design). As the body is one piece, if you break any part of the mirror, a completely new, entire unit is required... Stupid really. Expensive too no doubt, when you consider the number of components in an entire unit, and then factor in ///M tax!

                          I guess just to take care when doing it!

                          Am I right in assuming your bases are lovely and fresh then Jonttt...


                          (Very) Minor Update...
                          I had noticed whilst washing the car before, that the fuel cap cavity would fill up with water like a basin and not drain away... Obviously a blockage, but I kept forgetting to see to it. Well I checked it out yesterday.

                          In the end I got some electrical multicore cable (flexible but strong), located what should have been the drainage hole and fed it inside. I then added a few drops washing up liquid, and poured in some boiling water. After a few bubbles, the lot disappeared - problem solved. To dissolve/dislodge anything that the hot water and detergent hadn't, I pored in some neat antifreeze in the hope that the solvent would see to any remaining grime. Once I had flushed it through a number of times, the liquid was clearing quickly as it should.

                          The rest of the cavity (including the fuel cap itself) was then given the obligatory scrub with some G101 (strong detergent used by detailers to clean trim etc). That 5l bottle I bought is paying for itself quickly...

                          I then noticed that the fuel flap on the body was not sitting as flush as I'd like. This was annoying.

                          A few gentle tugs outward on the shoulder that the cap rests on when closed, and the cap now sits how it should. Or how I think it should at least. Simple, but satisfying. Might be worth checking yours - only take seconds to sort.

                          Before;


                          After;
                          There is a small rubber insert that can fall out that results in this also. Costs about 20p from BMW.
                          Ex 2001 S54
                          New cars:
                          Lotus Carlton
                          350Z

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by -Keith- View Post

                            Am I right in assuming your bases are lovely and fresh then Jonttt...
                            lol I wish it was perfect, no they are pretty good but one side shows very early signs of the problem. Not enough to need tackling yet (as you can only see it if you really know what your looking for ie its not obvious at all) but probably in a few years.

                            The other area worth you checking is the front of the rear arches. The liner is notorious for trapping dirt here and it stays damp. In worst cases quite heavy rust but the "norm" on the roadsters seems to be at least a little bubbling. Well worth checking and even if no signs worth at some point getting behind here to make sure clear and protected.

                            Nb the liner can be tricky to get out, only secured by a few bolts but becuase of its shape needs a bit of persuading
                            VIDEO or Journal

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Jonttt View Post
                              lol I wish it was perfect, no they are pretty good but one side shows very early signs of the problem. Not enough to need tackling yet (as you can only see it if you really know what your looking for ie its not obvious at all) but probably in a few years.

                              The other area worth you checking is the front of the rear arches. The liner is notorious for trapping dirt here and it stays damp. In worst cases quite heavy rust but the "norm" on the roadsters seems to be at least a little bubbling. Well worth checking and even if no signs worth at some point getting behind here to make sure clear and protected.

                              Nb the liner can be tricky to get out, only secured by a few bolts but becuase of its shape needs a bit of persuading
                              Sounds good. I guess even the most looked after example will be afflicted in time.

                              I know about the front of the rear arches. Pretty poor design IMO, seeing as the rust-prone arches of the E36 were well known by the time the design of the Z3 was pencilled. Whilst the roads are gritted, I'm actually hyper-obsessive about rinsing them out with clean cold water water after every journey - the thought of salty water festering in there is too much for my OCD! Mine have started to bubble yes, I just wish I had a big garage to allow me to strip the liner out, clean up, prep and treat them. I may even give it to my bodyshop and ask them to address it. I intend to underseal all arches as soon as I het the opportunity... Soon I hope. But overall, the car is in excellent condition.
                              Last edited by -Keith-; 09-01-2010, 12:40 PM.

                              Ex-Dakar MC Owner - Gone But Not Forgotten

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by -Keith- View Post
                                Sounds good. I guess even the most looked after example will be afflicted in time.

                                I know about the front of the rear arches. Pretty poor design IMO, seeing as the rust-prone arches of the E36 were well known by the time the design of the Z3 was pencilled. Whilst the roads are gritted, I'm actually hyper-obsessive about rinsing them out with clean cold water water after every journey - the thought of salty water festering in there is too much for my OCD! Mine have started to bubble yes, I just wish I had a big garage to allow me to strip the liner out, clean up, prep and treat them. I may even give it to my bodyshop and ask them to address it. I intend to underseal all arches as soon as I het the opportunity... Soon I hope. But overall, the car is in excellent condition.
                                Hi Keith enjoying the right up's can familiarize with the ocd tendencies. As my coupe is a garage queen between September and May I took the opportunity to coat the underside of my coupe and addressed the issue with the arches and sill's (manufactured protection gards using sparco mud flaps) i'll get some pictures up of the finished results when I get a chance.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X